My Perfect Day in Paris巴黎完美一日

【导读】 戴维·莱博维茨，美国专业厨师兼糕点师，著有9本书，其中包括《巴黎的甜蜜生活》及畅销书《我的巴黎厨房：食谱与故事》。他的新书《喝在法国》提供了 160 多种时尚鸡尾酒、精品开胃酒、咖啡馆最爱等食谱。

巴黎给人最深刻的印象也许是浪漫、唯美。说起巴黎，我们脑海中最先浮现的也许是世界文明的历史遗迹和艺术建筑：埃菲尔铁塔、凯旋门、卢浮宫、凡尔赛宫、巴黎圣母院等。而戴维和戴安娜的文章让我们看到一个烟火味的巴黎，包括巴黎人一天的饮食起居和一日三餐的主要内容。纵然是法国首都、艺术之都、时尚之都、文化之都、爱都和花都，“都”里的人总得吃喝不是！

David moved to Paris in 2004， and after years of cooking， baking， and tasting both the sweet and unsavory parts of life in France （the sweet being the pastries， the unsavory the experiences with bank tellers）， he’s cultivated la vie du quartier， an intimate knowledge of one’s arrondissement1 that few attain. His Paris is multicultural， tight-knit， and deliciously creative—a more down-to-earth side of the city that often goes unnoticed.

2004年，戴维移居法国巴黎。多年在法国烹调烘焙，体验法国生活的甘苦（甘甜的是糕点，苦涩的是与银行出纳员打交道的经历）之后，他已熟谙这里的市井生活，很少有人像他那样深入了解自己生活的区域。他的巴黎是多元文化的，紧凑且富有创意——这是这座城市更接地气的一面，也是常常被忽视的一面。

On the eve of the launch of Drinking French， his new book that takes a delectable dive into the iconic drinks of France， David brought HiP Paris2 on a tour of his perfect day in Paris， which includes a walk around Belleville， naturally fermented pastries， pork dumplings， and the best coffee and spirits the city has to offer.

戴维的新书《喝在法国》对法国极具特色的酒水进行了深度解读，读来轻松愉悦。该书发行前夕，戴维给“时髦巴黎”网站带来了他的巴黎完美一日行，这一天有贝尔维尔的漫步、自然发酵的糕点、猪肉饺子，还有这个城市最好的咖啡和烈酒。

Café au lait and a walk through Belleville

奶咖和贝尔维尔漫步

In the morning， I usually get up around 7 am， stay in my pajamas， and have coffee at home. In America， people like to drink a pot of coffee， but to me coffee is like a punctuation mark—one shot and I’m good.

早晨我一般7点左右起床，穿着睡衣在家先喝点儿咖啡。在美国，人们早起后喜欢喝一壶咖啡，但对我来说，咖啡就像一个标点符号——一杯就好。

Afterward， I’d walk over to Belleville; it’s around 20 minutes on foot from where I live in the 11th arrondissement3. It’s a multicultural neighborhood that feels authentic. If you want to see the real Paris， this is where you go. One thing people， especially foreigners， often forget about Paris is that it’s a melting pot. Belleville is also an inexpensive neighborhood， which means that young people can afford to open up businesses there.

随后，我会走到贝尔维尔，从我住的11区步行过去约20分钟。这是一个原汁原味的多元文化社区；如果想看看真正的巴黎，就该来这里。人们，尤其是外国人，经常忘记一点：巴黎是个大熔炉。贝尔维尔还是一个生活成本不高的社区，这意味着很适合年轻人在此创业。

First， I’d stop at La Fontaine de Belleville and have a café noisette4. It’s a French coffee shop for the new generation with a great vibe5， quality coffee， homemade desserts， and really good sandwiches. They’re famous for their classic jambon-beurre sandwich6， made with Prince de Paris ham—it’s the last boiled ham actually made in Paris.

首先，我会在贝尔维尔拉方丹咖啡馆停留片刻，喝一杯榛子咖啡。这是一家法式咖啡店，目标客户是年轻一代，环境很好，咖啡很棒，甜点是自制的，三明治尤其不错。其经典的火腿黄油三明治美名远扬，火腿用的是巴黎王子火腿——这是仅存的采用炖煮工艺制作的火腿，真正的巴黎出品。

Produce， pork dumplings， and pastries

农产品、猪肉饺子和糕点

Next， I’d go shopping for some ingredients. Terroirs d’Avenir sells beautiful French produce as well as a variety of cheeses and butters. There are also a lot of stores over on Boulevard de Belleville. I like to stop by Djudjura Blida， a North African butcher， for meat—a lamb shoulder7 to braise or a roast chicken for dinner. It’s not particularly scenic， but it’s a real slice of this part of Paris. There are also a lot of Middle Eastern épiceries （small grocery stores） in Belleville， like Produits du Monde. As a baker， I need to buy ingredients in big quantities， and this spot is perfect for that. I also just enjoy wandering around the neighborhood—it’s how I discover things.

接下来，我会去购买一些食材。“未来之地”出售的法国农产品很不错，还有各种奶酪和黄油。贝尔维尔大道上也有很多店。我喜欢顺路逛一下“朱尔朱拉-卜利达”，这是一家北非肉店，晚餐想炖羊肩肉或想烤鸡都可以在这里买肉。这地方谈不上多好看，但真是地道巴黎的一部分。贝尔维尔还有很多中东小杂货店，像“世界产品”。我是个烘焙师，需要大批量购买食材，这个地方正适合我。我还就喜欢在那一带闲逛，这是我发现新事物的方式。

For lunch， I’d head to Raviolis Chinois Nord-Est—their pork dumplings are the way to go！ I also love the spicy dumplings over at Trois Fois Plus de Piment8， although that’s in a different arrondissement. As a former Californian， I adore Asian food and eat it a lot… it’s very fulfilling for me.

午餐，我会去“东北饺子馆”，猪肉饺子非这家店莫属！我也喜欢“三倍辣椒”家的麻辣饺子，不过它在另一个区。作为一个前加利福尼亚人，我非常喜欢亚洲食物并且经常吃……这对我来说是很大的满足。

Afterwards， I’d walk over to Le Petit Grain and pick up a pastry and some bread. The pastries there are what I call “bakers’ pastries” rather than fancy French pastries. Everything is naturally fermented and they don’t use yeast in their croissants. They don’t use plastic either. It’s a zero-waste bakery！

随后，我会到“小谷物”买些点心和面包。那儿的糕点就是我所说的“烘焙师糕点”，不是花里胡哨的法式点心。每样东西都是自然发酵的，牛角面包也不用酵母发酵。他们也不用塑料制品。这家面包店零浪费！

An apéro9 hour sans prétention

低调的开胃酒时光

Then I’d stop at La Cave de Belleville for a bottle of wine. It’s a natural wine bar without the dogma. Natural wine has become a big deal in Paris， but there can be a certain snobbism associated with it， even though natural wine is， in fact， a very earthy ingredient！ I’m not a wine expert， so I’d just ask them for a recommendation. It’s also a great place for dinner—you can order a charcuterie platter and a bottle of wine from the shelves.

之后，我会在“贝尔维尔酒窖”买瓶葡萄酒，这是一家随性的天然葡萄酒酒吧。天然葡萄酒已成为巴黎的一大风尚，但可能也含有某些附庸风雅的成分，因为天然葡萄酒的成分其实就是纯天然的！我不是葡萄酒专家，因此我会请他们推荐一下。这也是吃晚饭的好地方，你可以从货架上点一份熟食拼盘和一瓶葡萄酒。