冷 面 热 宠
作者: 崔仪东
陕西省宝鸡市的擀面皮是由唐代冷淘面演变而来,具有筋道、柔软、凉香、酸辣可口、四季皆宜之特点,是陕西最具代表性的小吃之一。
In a factory workshop, cold noodles and seasonings are packed into bags on an assembly line in preparation for delivery to dinner tables across the country and the world. These cold noodles, called ganmianpi in Chinese, are a specialty of Baoji, a city in Northwest Chinas Shaanxi Province. Xu Lu, an office director of a food company, said they receive more than 500 orders a day via e commerce platforms, with each order averaging seven bags of noodles.
With a registered trademark, an industrial park and a special cold noodle industrial school, Baoji has turned the once handmade snack into a business worth more than 5 billion yuan ($782 million) a year.
The dish dates back as far as the Tang Dynasty, but it was during the Qing Dynasty that imperial chef Wang Tongjiang returned to his hometown in Qishan County, after retiring and taught fellow villagers how to make ganmianpi. Today, the snack has become a local symbol.
About an hour after the dough is made, it is repeatedly washed in water and then left for eight hours. After a series of steps, including fermentation, rolling, steaming and cooling, the dough is sliced into pliable but chewy noodles. Chili oil, gluten and vinegar are commonly used as seasonings.
In 2014, ganmianpi hit online shopping platforms, attracting orders from across the country. In the Baoji Panlong New Area, three companies have become the first to begin operations at the Baoji Ganmianpi Industrial Park. In 2020, the Baoji ganmianpi indus try reached the 5 billion yuan mark and now employs some 50,000 people across differ ent sectors. The noodles have been exported to more than 20 countries and regions, in cluding the United States, Canada, Japan and Australia.