4 Must-Eat Chicago Sandwiches四款必吃的芝加哥三明治

作者: 尼娜·弗兰德 郭晓阳/译

On a hit list of the city’s must-eat dishes, you’ll find not one, not two, but four meals on bread. (And yes, one is a hot dog. Let the debate1 begin.) We dig into those legends and the modern twists they’ve inspired. Stomach growling already? Let’s eat.

在芝加哥必吃美食榜单上,你会发现不止一两款,而是四款面包夹料美食。(是的,有一款是热狗。不服来辩。)我们深挖这四款美食的前世传奇,以及它们催生出的现代花样。肚子已经咕咕叫了吗?那就让我们一饱口福!

Italian beef

意大利牛肉三明治

Known around the city simply as a “beef,” this monster piles thinly sliced roast beef and a smattering of green peppers on crusty French bread, then generously soaks it all in jus.

这款超大三明治在芝加哥家喻户晓,简称“牛肉三明治”,是将切成薄片的烤牛肉与少量青椒夹到脆皮法棍面包中,再豪放地整个浸入肉汁。

The history

历史起源

Fans contest the sandwich’s precise origins but agree it has roots in the Italian American community. The most widely accepted tale is that a street peddler named Anthony Ferreri, who delivered various combinations of bread and meat to locals, needed to feed a wedding of 150. He had an idea that could serve twice the amount of people with the same amount of food—before plopping the roast beef onto the bread, he sliced it as thinly as possible and cooked it in its juices. The sandwiches were a hit and led Ferreri’s son, Al, to open a beef stand in 1938.

关于这款三明治的确切起源,粉丝们众说纷纭,但一致认为它源自意大利裔美国人社区。最广为接受的说法是:有个名叫安东尼·费雷里的街头小贩,平日向当地人售卖各类面包搭配肉制品的套餐。一次,他要为一场150人出席的婚礼提供餐食。他想出了一个办法,可以用同样分量的食材,供给两倍数量的食客——他先把烤牛肉切成尽可能薄的肉片,再浸入肉汁中调味,最后才夹到面包里。这款三明治大受欢迎,费雷里的儿子阿尔因此在1938年开了一个牛肉三明治摊。

Where to eat it

好店推荐

Al’s was originally a front for a bookie joint called Al’s Bar B-Q, but the shop gained popularity and grew into a franchised chain. Dozens of other Italian beef joints now exist in the Chicago area, including Johnnie’s Beef in Elmwood Park, which has been around since 1961 and was Anthony Bourdain’s2 beef of choice.

阿尔的摊位起初是一家博彩店的门面,名叫阿尔烤肉店。人气高涨后,这个摊位逐步发展成一家特许连锁店。除此之外,芝加哥地区现在还开有数十家意大利牛肉三明治店,包括开在埃尔姆伍德帕克的约翰尼牛肉三明治店。这家店创始于1961年,是安东尼·波登的首选意大利牛肉三明治店。

Fresh take

创意新品

Plant-Based Italian Beefless Sandwich from Buona, an Italian beef chain with locations around Chicagoland, has its own tagline: “A Chicago Taste But Plant-Based!” This vegan version of the staple holds its own with sliced seitan, and comes with mild or hot giardiniera for an extra kick.

意大利牛肉三明治连锁店波纳在芝加哥大都市区拥有多家分店,由其推出的素食意大利牛肉三明治,产品理念独具一格:“芝加哥风味,全素食美味!”这款素食三明治采用素肉片,并加入微辣或辛辣的意式泡菜,额外增添重口风味。

Reuben

鲁本三明治

The Reuben could’ve been invented at a New York City deli called Reuben’s around 1914, but another origin story—one that’s closer to home—traces the sandwich to the Blackstone Hotel (now the Kimpton Cottonwood) in Omaha, Nebraska.

鲁本三明治可能是1914年前后,在纽约市一家名为“鲁本”的熟食店里发明的。然而,另一种起源说法更接近真相,认为这款三明治来自内布拉斯加州奥马哈市的黑石酒店(现为金普顿卡顿伍德酒店)。

The history

历史起源

It’s said that in the 1920s, a man named Reuben Kulakofsky asked for a sandwich with corned beef and sauerkraut. The hotel owner’s son, Bernard Schimmel, made a concoction of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Thousand Island on rye—then grilled it. That sandwich became the hotel’s signature dish, later winning the National Sandwich Idea Contest in 1956. Reubens eventually made their way to Chicago, where other assimilated Jews opened delis and began slinging similar takes in the ‘40s and ‘50s. One of Chicago’s most famous renditions? The super-sized, signature Reuben at Manny’s Cafeteria and Delicatessen, an institution that’s been around since 1942.

据说,20世纪20年代,一个名叫鲁本·库拉科夫斯基的男人想吃一款用咸牛肉和德国泡菜制成的三明治。酒店老板的儿子伯纳德·席梅尔将咸牛肉、瑞士干酪、德国泡菜、千岛酱混合后,夹到黑麦面包中烤制。这款三明治成为酒店的招牌美食,后于1956年在全美三明治创意大赛中夺得桂冠。鲁本三明治最终传入芝加哥。20世纪40年代和50年代,其他归化犹太人在芝加哥开设熟食店,开始供应类似的三明治。芝加哥最负盛名的鲁本三明治是哪款呢?那就是超大尺寸招牌鲁本三明治,来自创始于1942年的曼尼自助熟食店。

Where to eat it

好店推荐

At Manny’s, the classic Reuben comes with the deli’s award-winning corned beef, but you can opt to swap for pastrami, turkey pastrami or roasted turkey. The restaurant also offers a vegetarian-friendly Reuben made with a veggie patty.

曼尼的经典鲁本三明治采用自家荣获奖项的咸牛肉,但你也可以选择更换为香熏牛肉、香熏火鸡肉或烤火鸡肉。这家店还供应采用素肉饼的素食鲁本三明治。

Fresh take

创意新品

The curing room at Lardon is a wonder, filled with the restaurant’s signature meats. Chef Chris Thompson makes his Reubens with house-smoked pastrami, Midnight Moon Gouda, house sauerkraut and deli pickles on marble rye. Instead of Thousand Island, he adds a swipe of Fancy Sauce—garlic aioli with ketchup and chopped cornichons.

拉东餐厅的腌制间令人赞叹,里面全是店里的招牌肉制品。主厨克里斯·汤普森将餐厅自制熏牛肉、午夜月光高达奶酪、餐厅自制德国泡菜和从熟食店买来的腌菜,夹在大理石黑麦面包中,制成鲁本三明治。他不用千岛酱,而是刷上一层方西酱。这种酱汁由蒜蓉蛋黄酱、番茄酱和切碎的酸黄瓜制成。

Italian sub

意大利潜艇三明治

Italian subs exist all over the country, residing under different names: hoagie in Philadelphia, hero in New York, grinder across New England. Chicago’s version comes without a special moniker, but just as much pizzazz.

意大利潜艇三明治可见于美国各地,只是叫法不同:在费城叫“好个儿”三明治;在纽约叫“英雄”三明治;在新英格兰叫“研磨机”三明治。芝加哥的意大利潜艇三明治没有特别的绰号,但魅力丝毫不减。

The history

历史起源

At J.P. Graziano, decades of family history are heaped onto every sandwich. Vincenzo Graziano came to Chicago in 1905 without any money. He opened his first grocery store in 1922, growing the business into the J.P. Graziano Grocery Company.

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