Not Everyone Is Buying Second-Hand不是人人都买二手货

Cameron Bishop grew up thrifting1 because it was what he could afford.

卡梅伦·毕晓普从小买东西都买二手的，因为他只能负担得起这样的生活。

Bishop was a prolific upcycler2 in his teens， hacking and refashioning his second-hand wares3 into unique， custom pieces. Once， he came across a band T-shirt he didn’t have the money to buy， so he spent hours recreating the logo with fabric markers on a second-hand tee. Other times， he added buttons and patches to spice up his finds.

毕晓普十几岁时改造升值过很多废旧物品，将自己的二手衣服改造成独特的定制款。有一次，他看上一件乐队T恤但没钱买，于是就花了几个小时用布料记号笔在一件二手T恤上复刻了一个乐队标志。有时，他还会用纽扣和补丁来让他淘来的二手衣服更出彩。

Despite his creativity， Bishop， now 31 and living in Minneapolis， says his unique wardrobe was as much a survival tool as a vehicle of self-expression. For Bishop， wearing thrifted garments was a financial necessity， and altering them was a way to take control of his own narrative.

今年31岁、住在明尼阿波利斯的毕晓普说，尽管他很有创意，然而他独特的衣橱既是一种生存手段，也是自我表达的载体。对于毕晓普来说，穿二手衣服是因囊中羞涩不得已而为之，而改造它们则是独树一帜的一种方式。

“As a kid， I wanted to stick out because I wanted to beat my community to the punch4，” he says. “If I was going to appear different， I wanted to be intentional about looking different.”

“小时候，我总想突显自己，因为我想比自己社区里的其他人都前卫。”他说。“如果我要显得另类，就会故意穿得与众不同。”

But when he started making his own money as an adult， Bishop abandoned the fabric markers. While working as a business consultant， he found himself shopping for a new outfit every time he landed a new client. “It felt like I finally had the ability to appear successful，” he says. “I always bought the outfit that I thought conveyed the message the client wanted me to convey to them.”

但当毕晓普成年后开始自己挣钱时，他放弃了布料记号笔。在担任商业顾问期间，他发现自己每接到一个新客户就会买一套新衣服。“感觉我终于有能力让自己看起来就是个成功人士了。”他说。“在我看来，我买的衣服总是能向客户传达他们想让我传达给他们的信息。”

Bishop’s experience with secondhand clothing as a source of agency， creativity， and shame all at once point to the complex cocktail of reasons that many people still avoid used clothing， despite its growing popularity.

毕晓普觉得二手服装既给予他能动性和创造力，同时也带来了羞耻感——他的这种体验反映出很多人仍对二手服装避之不及的复杂而多样的原因，尽管二手服装越来越受欢迎。

The resale market has experienced remarkable growth and cultural favor in recent years： According to a report by online second-hand platform ThredUp， the U.S. second-hand market will more than triple in value over the next decade. When TikTok started to take Gen Z by storm， the app was quickly filled with expert Depop5 sellers and “thrift flippers，” creators who upcycle second-hand pieces into more on-trend creations. Even the luxury labels that long sought to keep their goods from being consigned have started to get in on the second-hand action， with brands like Gucci and Alexander McQueen forging partnerships with luxury resellers like The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective， respectively.

近年来，二手市场经历了显著的增长，日益得到认可：根据在线二手平台ThredUp的报告，美国二手市场的价值在未来十年将达到现在的三倍以上。当TikTok开始席卷Z世代时，该应用程序很快充斥了专业的Depop卖家和“倒卖二手物品的人”，他们擅长创造，将二手物品改造成更潮流的单品。连长期以来试图阻止其商品被寄售的奢侈品牌也开始涉足二手业务，比如古驰和亚历山大·麦昆与the RealReal和Vestiaire Collective这样的奢侈品转售商建立了合作关系。

One of the factors driving this growth is the increase in public awareness of fashion’s negative environmental impact. Buying second-hand keeps clothing out of landfills and， if it replaces shopping for brand-new items， can decrease demand for raw material extraction used to create the fibers spun into fabric.

推动这一增长的因素之一是，大众更多地意识到时尚产业对环境造成了负面影响。购买二手服装可以让衣物免于垃圾填埋，而且如果购买二手物品可以代替购买全新物品，提取原材料用于制造织物纤维的需求就可以减少。

Still， barriers to shopping secondhand persist for many people. Some cite the trouble with finding second-hand clothing that fits. Since second-hand stores are stocked with one-offs6， finding a garment that’s the right size is part of the challenge for anyone. But it’s especially tricky for people who don’t wear straight sizes.

尽管如此，对于许多人来说，购买二手服装的障碍仍然存在。有些人称，很难买到合适尺寸的二手衣服。由于二手商店卖的衣服都是单件单码，找到合适尺寸的衣服对任何人来说都有点困难。而这对于那些不穿常规码的人来说更为棘手。

It’s long been noted that the fashion industry fails fat people; the second-hand market is no better. While there are some vintage and second-hand stores that focus on plus-size clothing， like Plus BKLYN and Two Big Blondes， they’re few and far between7.

人们很早就注意到时尚产业没有考虑肥胖人群，二手市场也好不到哪儿去。虽然有专卖加大码服装的古着店和二手店，例如Plus BKLYN和Two Big Blondes，但这样的店少之又少。

But even some people who could easily shop second-hand based on their size don’t for other reasons.

但是，有些人即使能轻易买到合适尺寸的二手衣服，也会因为其他原因而放弃购买。

Therese Morillo is an accountant in the Bay Area whose favorite place to shop for clothes is Target8. She has never been second-hand shopping in her life. Morillo insists that she’s not against second-hand per se—about half of her kids’ wardrobes consist of items passed down from their cousins—but she’s uncomfortable with the idea of wearing clothing from strangers. She says it’s hard to shake the idea that clothes purchased from thrift shops are “dirty” in a way that can’t be eradicated by one cycle in her washing machine. After volunteering for an organization that required her to sort donated clothing， she’s never forgotten the feeling of pawing through unwashed donations. But there’s also a deeper level to her hesitance.

特蕾泽·莫里洛是湾区的一名会计师，她最喜欢去塔吉特买衣服，这辈子从来没有买过二手货。莫里洛强调，她并不反对二手物品本身——她孩子衣柜里大约有一半的衣物都是孩子的堂表亲传下来的——但她觉得穿陌生人的衣服会不舒服。她说自己有种想法很难摆脱，认为从二手商店买来的衣服“脏”，不是在洗衣机里洗一遍就能洗干净的。自从她作为志愿者为一个机构分拣捐赠衣物之后，她就怎么都忘不掉翻找未经清洗的捐赠衣物的感觉。但她的犹豫还有更深层次的原因。