The Rich History of the Traditional English Breakfast传统英式早餐趣史

The full English Breakfast （also known as the “fry-up”）： Some consider it a culinary masterpiece， while some laud it as the perfect， greasy hangover cure. The iconic morning plate of bacon， eggs， sausages， and baked beans is an integral part of British culture. You’ll find it on the menus of cafés， hotels， greasy spoons1， pubs， and restaurants.

全英式早餐俗称fry-up，有人视之为美味珍馐，也有人奉之为绝佳的油腻解酒良方。这道包含了培根、鸡蛋、香肠和焗豆的经典早餐是英国文化的重要组成部分。咖啡馆、酒店、廉价小餐馆、酒吧和餐厅的菜单上都有它的身影。

Such is the emblematic status of the traditional English breakfast that playwright William Somerset Maugham once famously said that “To eat well in England， you should eat breakfast three times a day.” This beloved morning meal has evolved over centuries since the Middle Ages. Here’s the history behind the meal， which is as rich as the food itself.

传统英式早餐备受推崇，剧作家威廉·萨默塞特·毛姆有句话说得妙：“想在英国吃好，早餐三顿吃饱。”自中世纪以来，这种深受人们喜爱的早餐经历了数百年的演变，其背后的历史就如同其菜品一样丰富，让我们一起来看看吧！

It started with the English gentry

起源：英国乡绅阶级

Back in the 1300s the gentry—a well-heeled social class of landowners—thought of themselves as guardians of the English countryside. They felt it their duty to uphold the culture and traditions established by their Anglo-Saxon forefathers. During the Middle Ages， daily meals often consisted of a mid-morning breakfast and dinner. The gentry were famous for their love of hearty breakfasts and Anglo-Saxon hospitality. They would convene around the tables of their lavish homes to feast on meats， vegetables and other produce grown on their land. Breakfasts gave lords of the manor the opportunity to showcase their wealth to visiting friends， family and fellow landowners. Guests would fill up after decadent parties， before journeying home or going out on a hunt.

早在14世纪，乡绅阶级（富有的地主阶级）自视为英格兰乡村的守护者，以传承盎格鲁-撒克逊先辈建立的文化和传统为己任。在中世纪，人们通常只吃两顿饭：上午的早餐和晚间的正餐。当时的乡绅以喜爱丰盛的早餐和秉承盎格鲁-撒克逊式的好客传统闻名。他们会在奢华的宅邸中围坐一桌，尽情享用自家土地上收获的肉类、蔬菜和其他农产品。早餐是庄园主向到访的亲朋好友以及其他地主展示财富的好时机。宾客们会在彻夜狂欢之后，吃上一顿丰盛的早餐，然后启程回家或外出打猎。

... Then evolved by the Victorians

发展：维多利亚时代

The 19th-century was an era of great change throughout the United Kingdom. Queen Victoria’s accession to the throne came at a time when the power of the gentry was in decline. They were soon replaced by affluent merchants and industrialists， many of whom were driving forces behind the Industrial Revolution. In a bid to improve their lives， this new social class took inspiration from the lifestyle of the gentry. One such custom was the English breakfast as an important social event. Just as the gentry had done， Victorians took pleasure in celebrating their riches with exuberant meals.

19世纪，英国社会发生了巨大的变化。维多利亚女王即位之时，乡绅的势力正在衰落，他们很快被富裕的商人和工业家所取代，而这当中有许多人正是工业革命的推动者。为了提升生活品质，这一新兴社会阶层开始从乡绅的生活方式中汲取灵感。其中就包括将英式早餐视为一项重要的社交活动。就像过去的乡绅那样，维多利亚时代的人们也热衷于用奢华的早餐来彰显自己的财富。

Victorians also took the notion of breakfasts to new levels of luxury. They were leisurely and civilized affairs， with tables adorned with abundant silverware and crystal glassware. Guests were given newspapers to browse while taking their time to pick through the plates of typical Anglo-Saxon and exotic dishes. Eggs and bacon became common staples， alongside tongue and kippers. Some offered kedgeree， an Indian dish of smoked fish， boiled eggs and rice.

他们也将早餐的概念提升到了更加奢华的程度。早餐成为了一种悠闲而优雅的活动，餐桌上摆放着琳琅满目的银器和水晶玻璃器皿。宾客们一边悠闲地翻阅着报纸，一边挑选品尝各式地道的盎格鲁-撒克逊风味和异国风味的菜肴。鸡蛋和培根成为常见的主食，牛舌和烟熏鲱鱼也是桌上的常客。有些家庭还提供鱼蛋烩饭，这是一道由熏鱼、水煮蛋和米饭组成的印度美食。

... And perfected by the Edwardians

完善：爱德华时代

Come the turn of the 20th century and Edward VII replaced Queen Victoria on the throne. For a decade， the Edwardian era was somewhat of a Golden Age for the British Empire. It was characterized by long， sun-drenched summers and effervescent2 garden and street parties. Hotel guests， restaurant goers， train travelers， and businessmen now found the fry-up readily available in every corner of the country.

20世纪之交，爱德华七世接替维多利亚女王登上王位。整整十年，爱德华时代堪称大英帝国的黄金时代。阳光明媚的漫长夏日、热闹非凡的花园派对和街头聚会成为了那个时代的标志。酒店住客、餐厅食客、火车旅客和商务人士在英国的任一角落都能轻易买到全英式早餐。

This buoyant era was when the English breakfast truly made its mark on society. Back bacon， eggs， sausages， baked beans， black pudding and fried tomato became the standard ingredients. They’d be accompanied by toast， jam and marmalade， tea， coffee and orange juice. With the accessibility of the ingredients， the full English also gained a following among the middle classes. Families ate large breakfasts—now earlier rather than later in the morning—in order to fill up and have the energy to survive long days at work.

正是在这个繁荣的时代，英式早餐真正地在社会中留下了烙印。一顿标准的英式早餐包括猪背肉培根、鸡蛋、香肠、焗豆、黑布丁和煎番茄，再配以吐司、果酱和橘子酱、茶、咖啡和柳橙汁。随着食材的普及，英式全餐也开始在中产阶级中流行起来。许多家庭不再等到晚些时候的上午，而是早早地吃上一顿丰盛的早餐，摄入充足的能量，好有精力应对漫长的工作日。

Becoming a working class staple

成为工人阶级的主食

Despite rationing3， the love for the English breakfast showed no signs of slowing down after World War II. In fact， it’s thought that half of the British population began nearly every day with bacon， eggs， sausage， and the rest during the 1950s. The working class were getting into the spirit of this national dish， too. This was largely thanks to the greasy spoon， a no-frills café usually situated next to constructions sites， ports and warehouses. A common sight was， and to some extent still is， of laborers sat around the table with a fry-up， mug of tea and a copy of the tabloid newspaper. All day breakfast signs meant that the greasy spoon chef was happy to oblige for breakfast， lunch and dinner. Consequently， the British Isles now had a culinary delight enjoyed by everyone from dignitaries to dock workers. Legend states that Sir Winston Churchill himself chowed down on a fry-up followed by a cigar and whisky prior to getting out of bed every morning.